best beginner hangboards

Top 5 Climbing Hangboards for Beginners

Best Beginner Hangboards: Understanding Hangboard Training

Hey there, fellow climbing fanatics! If you’ve ever found yourself dangling from a wall, cursing at your lack of grip, let me let you in on a little secret: hangboard training. It doesn’t matter if you’re just getting your start or are a seasoned rock ninja, working the hangboard magic can boost your game, making those unreachable holds a thing of the past.

Introduction to Hangboard Training

So, what’s a hangboard, you ask? Well, it’s this gnarly little contraption also lovingly called a fingerboard. It’s all about cranking up the strength in your fingers and grip, which, if you ask any climber, is the secret sauce to crushing it on the rocks. Think of it as weightlifting for your digits. It’s particularly awesome for working those tiny but mighty muscles in your fingers, hands, and forearms. If you’re a newbie, easy does it—focus on climbing technique first before jumping on the fingerboard bandwagon (check this out).

When you’re just starting out, go easy on those bite-sized edges and stick to the big comfy grooves on the hangboard ‘til those fingerlings toughen up (Mountain Equipment guide). And let’s not skip the warm-up, folks—give yourself a solid 15-20 minutes to get those tendons to a happy place before jumping into beast mode (warm-up exercises).

Benefits of Hangboard Training

So, what’s in it for you? A whole lot, I promise!

  • Finger Power Pack: Messing around on a hangboard regularly will turn your fingers into mini vice grips, letting you laugh at awkward crimpers and slopey holds (types of climbing holds).
  • Safety First: Unlike the wild ride of a tough climb, hangboards offer a mellow place to hone in on strength without twisting your insides into a painful pretzel (safety in climbing).
  • Grip Endurance Galore: You know those drawn-out climbs where your fingers cry for mercy? Say goodbye to slippy hands with regular hangboard grind sessions.
  • And the Wins Keep Coming: With a structured approach, you can track your growth like a pro and tweak your methods to keep those gains coming (training for glory).

For all you fresh-fingered folks, nail the basics first before diving into the deep end with advanced moves. Loads of guides are ready for you for more nitty-gritty on climbing finger training and boosting your climbing endurance.

Nailing the fundamentals will set you on the right path and make your hangboard training a safer bet. Wanna just conquer those boulders, sport climbs, or traditional routes like a boss? A trusty hangboard is your one-stop shop to getting there—go ahead, give it a whirl!

Selecting the Best Beginner Hangboard

Kickstarting your climb training with just the right hangboard could really boost your progress. Here’s my personal list for the best beginner hangboards.

Tension Climbing Grindstone

The Tension Climbing Grindstone is often a top pick, especially if you’re after comfort and variety. With edge sizes ranging from 30mm down to a neat 10mm, dropping by 5mm each time, it’s got something for everyone from the improving intermediate to those already ticking elite boxes. The labeled edges are a sweet bonus for keeping tabs on your route to glory.

FeatureSpecification
Edge Sizes30mm to 10mm, in 5mm drops
MaterialWood
Ideal ForIntermediate to big-league climbers

Internal Link: climbing finger training

Tension Flash Board

If you’re tight on cash but big on dreams of climbing, the Tension Flash Board is your mate. It’s compact, portable, and boasts standard edge sizes of 20mm, 15mm, 10mm, and 8mm. Perfect for thrifty climbers eager to train hard without busting their wallets.

FeatureSpecification
Edge Sizes20mm, 15mm, 10mm, and 8mm
PortabilityTop-notch
Ideal ForClimbers yearning for mobility and comfort

Internal Link: climbing endurance training

So iLL Meagan Martin Training Tiles

If you’re just getting your foothold, the So iLL Meagan Martin Training Tiles are the winning ticket for green climbers. With larger hold options and cozy edges, pockets, and slopers, they focus on grip variety – ideal for anyone starting on the hangboard scene.

FeatureSpecification
Hold TypesEdges, pockets, and slopers
MaterialResin
Ideal ForFirst-time climbers

Internal Link: basic climbing moves

Embarking on your hangboard training adventure can feel overwhelming, but choosing the right gear makes it all smoother. Whether you’re starting out or just refining your pizza slice skills, each of these boards offers something special to hit those rock-climbing milestones. For some prep tips, have a peek at our piece on climbing warm up exercises.

Beginner Hangboard Training Tips

Importance of Climbing Technique

Alright, so you’re thinking about hangboarding, huh? Before you get too carried away, let’s talk climbing basics. Focus on mastering good climbing technique first. It’s tempting to jump into hangboarding to beef up those fingers, but for newbies, it’s all about laying down some solid climbing skills first (Climbing).

With the right moves, you’ll be using your body smartly, taking some stress off your fingers and steering clear of mishaps. Simple stuff like getting your footwork right and figuring out balance makes a world of difference. This groundwork will make your hangboarding more productive and less risky. Plus, it’s just more fun when you’re not nursing an injury!

Starting Slow and Safe Progression

Now, hangboard training isn’t a sprint; it’s a marathon. Ease into it, will you? For folks just dipping their toes into fingerboarding, stick to the bigger holds and deeper pockets till your digits toughen up. Your tendons and pulleys (no, not the ones on your window blinds) need time to get with the program, so keep your cool and be patient.

Don’t skimp on the warm-ups either. Spend a good 15-20 minutes getting your heart pumping and joints moving. Skip this, and you’re just begging for an injury (Climbing). If you’re scratching your head about warm-ups, check out our handy climbing warm up exercises.

Aim for 2-3 hangboarding sessions a week for about a month or so, if you’re a beginner to intermediate in the hanging game (Climbing). Space them out, mix up your training—focus on strength one day, endurance the next—but don’t overdo it. Crushing a hard climb and then jumping straight to hangboarding? Yeah, bad idea. Fatigue and injuries are no joke.

Hangboarding can be safer than going all out with bouldering, as long as you’re smart about it. Most injuries with hangboards come down to mistakes and not paying attention (Climbing). Stick to these safety tips, and you’ll be all set to hang strong and injury-free.

Training TipDescription
Focus on TechniqueGet your climbing skills rock-solid before hangboarding.
Use Larger EdgesStart with big holds and deep pockets to ease into it.
Warm-UpDo a 15-20 minute warm-up to get moving and grooving.
Gradual ProgressionTrain a few times a week, taking it easy at first.
Avoid OveruseDon’t back-to-back heavy climbing with hangboarding.

These beginner hangboard tips lay down the basics for taking your climbing to the next level. If you’re itching for more on finger training, swing by our guide on climbing finger training.

Key Considerations for Hangboard Selection

Picking the perfect hangboard can change up your climbing game, especially if you’re just starting out. Let’s talk about the important stuff you gotta check before buying one.

Material Choices for Hangboards

You’ve got a few options when it comes to what hangboards are made of, and each has its own perks and drawbacks. The big three are wood, polyester resin, and polyurethane.

Wood:

  • Pros: Kind to your skin, light, and looks pretty cool.
  • Cons: Pricey and needs regular care to avoid splinters.

Polyester Resin:

  • Pros: Super durable with a special texture that improves grip.
  • Cons: It’s heavier and might be rough on your fingers.

Polyurethane:

  • Pros: Light and comes in lots of shapes, making it a fave among climbers today.
  • Cons: Not as gentle on the skin as wood.

Here’s a quick look at how they stack up:

MaterialSkin-FriendlinessWeightDurability
WoodHighLightModerate
Polyester ResinModerateHeavyHigh
PolyurethaneModerateLightHigh

Need more details? Check out the Mountain Equipment guide.

Hold Variety and Depths

The types and sizes of holds on your hangboard really matter for your training. If you’re just getting started, find a hangboard with a variety of holds like edges, pockets, slopers, and jugs (Mountain Equipment).

Hold Types:

  • Edges: Flat spots for your fingertips. You can start small and work your way up.
  • Pockets: Little holes for your fingers. They come in various challenges.
  • Slopers: Round holds needing an open-hand grip.
  • Jugs: Big, easy-to-hold grips, great for newbies.

Best Depths for Rookies:

  • Large Edges: 1 – 1 ½ inches
  • Medium Edges: ¾ inches
  • Small Edges: ½ – ¾ inch

Check out this hold depth guide by experience level:

Experience LevelHold Depth
BeginnerLarge (1 – 1 ½ inches)
IntermediateMedium (¾ inches)
AdvancedSmall (½ – ¾ inch)

Grabbing a hangboard with a mix of holds and sizes gives your finger strength a chance to grow (Climbing).

While you start your hangboarding adventure, keep these factors in mind. A hangboard with the right mix of stuff can supercharge your climbing routine. Don’t skip out on our beginner hangboard training tips and be sure to warm up with some climbing exercises before you hit it.

Advanced Hangboard Options

Alright, rock warriors, ready to take your climbing to the next notch? Let’s chat about some killer hangboards that are not for the faint of heart. We’re about to check out two badass boards that will have you climbing tougher routes and feeling like a finger-strength legend. Let’s dig into the Beastmaker 2000 and Awesome Woodys Home Boy. These options aren’t for slackers, but hey, neither are you!

Beastmaker 2000

Beastmaker 2000? More like the ‘Beast’maker, if you catch my drift. Climbers rave about this board for a good reason: it’s like a finger fortress. This wooden wonder is all about variety, offering more holds than a vintage tape deck has buttons. It’s packed with large, medium, and small edges, plus slopers, 2-finger pockets, and even one-finger slots, or “monos,” if you’re fancy. Basically, if you’re aiming to turn your fingers into little tower cranes, this is your jam.

FeatureSpecification
EdgesBig, Not-so-big, and Tiny
Pockets2-Finger, One-Finger Madness
SlopersHeck Yes

If you’ve ever wondered how those climbers get Spidey-level finger strength, now you know. Get your forearms ready for a workout they’re not gonna forget!

Hangboard Training Protocols

Ah, hangboard training—a fun way to humble yourself and remind everyone else how determined you are to propel your climbing game to the next level! Whether you’re a rock-scaling newbie or a seasoned veteran who’s as comfortable on a climb as you are in your favorite armchair, understanding different hangboard protocols is key to boosting your finger strength and keeping those injury gremlins at bay. Let’s take a peek at some basic hangboard training routines tailored for climbers of various stripes.

Minimum Edge Hangs

Alright, picture this: you’re hanging from the tip of a mountain with nothing but the wind and your own determination to keep you from plummeting to the abyss below. Thankfully, Minimum Edge Hangs have got your back! The trick here is to hang from the tiniest edge you can grip without form going out the window. Start with the science project of below-average-sized chalk and slowly work your way down (yup, we mean literally smaller edges!). A must for honing finger strength and grip endurance—though your fingers may start calling you Frankenstein before long.

Edge SizeHang Time (seconds)RepetitionsRest (minutes)
Big Ol’ Edge (1-1½ inches)1032
Getting Smaller (¾ inches)832
Teeny Edge (½ – ¾ inch)632

Need more tips? Visit our climbing finger training page. You’ll be crushing those tiny crimps in no time!

Maximum Weight 10-Second Protocol

Been following Henry Cavill’s training regimen? Well, it’s time those finger muscles get the spotlight! The 10-Second Protocol is about packing some extra pounds (in weights, not pizza… unless you’re using it as a prize) to push those tendons and muscles into Herculean strength. Begin gently—nobody wants to look cool in a cast.

Added WeightHang Time (seconds)SetsRest (minutes)
10 lbs1032
20 lbs1032
30 lbs1032

Warm those muscles up first! Swing by our climbing warm up exercises page, because a groaning muscle’s no laughing matter.

Maximum Weight “7-53” Protocol

Here’s the “7-53” routine, popular in hangboard circles. You hold for 7 seconds, rest for 53 seconds, and repeat for best endurance gains. Sound easy? Well, it’s meant to be a nice mix of challenging and attainable, like climbing Mt. Everest with a helicopter view.

Added WeightTotal RepetitionsSet CountRest Between Sets (minutes)
10 lbs532
20 lbs532
30 lbs532

Spruce up your technique and enrich your knowledge on basic climbing moves to pair those muscles with mad climbing skills!

Rookies, don’t worry. Starting with the right hangboard is half the battle. Check out our picks on best indoor climbing gear to set yourself up for success. Kick off your training slowly to dodge any “ouch!” moments, and always, always zero in on technique. These protocols will do more than spice up your hangboard routine—they’ll casually pave the route to you becoming a climbing legend. For tips on balancing frequency and strength, hop over to how often should I climb and climbing finger training. If computers adorned walls, they’d have your climbing feats framed, guaranteed.

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